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Lei Hulu Manu Great value was placed on feathers for garments by the
ali'i, bird catchers were retained (po'e kahai manu) just for the
purpose of providing the various feathers to make the feather
garments. Yellow feathers were of greater value than red. Black and
green feathers were the least desired. Feathers were collected by the
konohiki, who circled the islands during the time of the makahiki, as
payment to the ali'i.
Leis of one single color were more valuable than those of two or
more colors. Feather leis were usually identified by the feathers that
were used; lei mamo, lei
'o'o, lei 'i'iwi, lei 'apapane. A lei of mixed feathers in
varying lengths and colors was called lei piki. A lei of spiral
designs of various colors was called lei pani'o; one with sections of
various colors, lei pauku, or lei pawehe; and one with feathers turned
inward, lei kamoe.
The lei hulu manu was the most valuable possession of the women of
the ali'i class. These leis were worn proudly to denote her rank.
Feathers sewn to one side of a foundation, attached with two or more
overcast stitches is called lei hulu papa, flat feather lei.
Reference: Ka Lei, The Leis of Hawaii by Marie A.
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